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Appetite for America

Appetite for America

Fred Harvey and the Business of Civilizing the Wild West — One Meal at a Time
by Stephen Fried 2010 680 pages
History
Biography
American History
Listen
7 minutes

Key Takeaways

1. Fred Harvey revolutionized American dining and hospitality

"Fred Harvey set a standard of excellence! … He has been a civilizer and a benefactor. He has added to the physical, mental and spiritual welfare of millions."

Quality and consistency. Fred Harvey transformed dining experiences for travelers in the American West during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. He established a chain of restaurants and hotels along the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railway, offering high-quality food and impeccable service at a time when such standards were rare. Harvey's establishments were known for their cleanliness, efficiency, and attention to detail.

Innovation in service. Harvey introduced several groundbreaking concepts:

  • Standardized menus and recipes across locations
  • Fresh ingredients shipped by refrigerated rail cars
  • Rigorous employee training and strict dress codes
  • The "cup code" system for efficient beverage service

These innovations set a new benchmark for the hospitality industry and helped civilize the American West by providing oases of refinement in frontier towns.

2. The Harvey Girls: Pioneers of women's workforce in the American West

"Fred Harvey is responsible for a great deal of the growth and a great deal of the happiness in this part of the country. He has done more than any immigration society to settle up the Southwest and still continues to provide wives for ranchmen, cowboys, railway hands and other honest pioneers."

Empowering women. The Harvey Girls, young women recruited to work as waitresses in Fred Harvey's establishments, became a symbol of female independence and progress. They were among the first major female workforces in America, allowing single women to travel independently, earn a decent living, and contribute to the settlement of the West.

Cultural impact. The Harvey Girls:

  • Received extensive training in service and etiquette
  • Lived in supervised dormitories, maintaining a respectable reputation
  • Often married local men, helping to stabilize frontier communities
  • Became part of American popular culture, inspiring books and films

Their presence brought a civilizing influence to rough frontier towns and provided a model of professional women in the workforce.

3. Fred Harvey's empire expanded with the railroads and shaped the Southwest

"More than any single organization, the Fred Harvey System introduced America to Americans."

Symbiotic growth. As the Santa Fe Railway expanded westward, Fred Harvey's empire grew alongside it. This partnership allowed Harvey to establish a chain of restaurants, hotels, and retail shops stretching from Chicago to California. The company's presence along the railway lines helped shape the development and perception of the American Southwest.

Cultural influence:

  • Popularized Southwestern cuisine and Native American art
  • Developed "Harvey Houses" as social centers in frontier towns
  • Created the "Indian Detours" to promote tourism in the Southwest
  • Influenced the development of Southwestern architecture and design

Fred Harvey's operations became instrumental in introducing Americans to the culture and landscapes of their own country, particularly the Southwest, fostering a sense of national identity and pride.

4. Maintaining high standards and innovation drove Fred Harvey's success

"Concentrate your business in as few hands as possible: When you have formed the right associations, 'stick' unless convinced your confidence is misplaced, and in that case be careful to see that you hitch up right the next time."

Unwavering commitment. Fred Harvey's success was built on an obsession with maintaining high standards across all aspects of the business. This commitment to quality and consistency became known as "the Harvey way" and was central to the company's reputation and longevity.

Key principles:

  • Promote from within to ensure adherence to company standards
  • Invest in employee training and development
  • Constantly innovate in food service and hospitality
  • Adapt to changing customer needs and transportation trends

The company's ability to maintain these standards while expanding rapidly and adapting to new technologies and market conditions was crucial to its long-term success.

5. The Harvey family navigated succession and modernization challenges

"Ford Harvey had spent his entire professional life planning for every imaginable possibility. [...] So it was astonishing that Ford Harvey had not left exacting instructions for his own successor and the company's future."

Generational transition. The Harvey family faced significant challenges in maintaining the company's success across generations. Fred Harvey's son, Ford, took over the business and expanded it further, but his unexpected death left the company without a clear succession plan.

Adapting to change:

  • Transitioning from founder-led to professional management
  • Balancing tradition with modernization
  • Navigating economic upheavals and changing transportation landscapes
  • Maintaining family control while professionalizing operations

The company's ability to adapt to these challenges while preserving its core values and reputation was critical to its continued success in the early 20th century.

6. Fred Harvey capitalized on the rise of tourism and Native American culture

"Fred Harvey saw the value of this outmoded article when others less discerning were casting it aside for the new."

Cultural preservation. Fred Harvey played a significant role in preserving and promoting Native American arts and crafts at a time when traditional cultures were under threat. The company's Indian Department became a major collector and retailer of Native American art, helping to sustain indigenous crafts and economies.

Tourism innovation:

  • Created the "Indian Detours" to showcase Southwestern culture
  • Developed hotels and services at the Grand Canyon and other natural wonders
  • Promoted the Southwest as a unique cultural destination
  • Collaborated with the Santa Fe Railway to market the region

By recognizing the value of Native American culture and the appeal of the Southwest to tourists, Fred Harvey helped create a new industry and preserve important aspects of American heritage.

7. The company adapted to changing transportation and faced economic turmoil

"Air travel in the U.S. is soon to emerge from the spasmodic era of the thermos bottle, the cheese sandwich and the leather jacket."

Transportation evolution. As transportation technology evolved from railroads to automobiles and airplanes, Fred Harvey's company adapted its business model to serve new markets. The company expanded into operating restaurants and retail shops in airports and along highways, particularly Route 66.

Challenges and opportunities:

  • Invested in early commercial aviation through Transcontinental Air Transport
  • Developed services for automobile tourists along new highways
  • Faced competition from new restaurant chains and changing consumer habits
  • Navigated economic upheavals, including the Great Depression

The company's ability to foresee and adapt to these changes in transportation and the economy was crucial to its survival and continued relevance in the 20th century. However, the rapid pace of change and economic turmoil also posed significant challenges to the company's traditional business model.

Last updated:

Review Summary

4.2 out of 5
Average of 1k+ ratings from Goodreads and Amazon.

Appetite for America is a highly praised biography of Fred Harvey and his company's impact on American hospitality and the West. Readers appreciate Fried's engaging storytelling, historical detail, and the book's exploration of Harvey's influence on railroads, restaurants, and tourism. Many reviewers express surprise at learning about Harvey's significance and enjoy the book's insights into American history. Some found the family drama sections less compelling, but overall the book is considered informative, well-researched, and entertaining.

About the Author

Stephen Fried is an accomplished journalist and bestselling author known for his nonfiction works. He has written several acclaimed books, including biographies and investigative journalism pieces. Fried teaches at Columbia University and the University of Pennsylvania, and has won multiple National Magazine Awards. His writing covers diverse topics such as mental health, American history, and the pharmaceutical industry. Fried's work has appeared in numerous prestigious publications, and he frequently lectures on subjects related to his books and articles. He resides in Philadelphia with his wife, author Diane Ayres.

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